Leaving Guillestre, we climbed higher and higher still, through the ski resorts of Saint-Marcellin-de Vars and Les Claux until we reached the summit of the Col de Vars at Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye, 2109 metres above sea level.   The views were staggering.  The temperature was dropping rapidly as the altitude increased, from 38 C to just 19 C at the top, which came as a great momentary relief, and we even had some rainfall.

On our way up, as well as when we reached the summit and on the descent, we came across athletic and determined-looking lycra-clad cyclists taking on the mountain.  Some were teenagers (one boy we asked was 12!) and others much older, and some were no doubt taking on the ‘Brevet des 7 cols Uboyens’ cyclotourism challenge – conquering the 7 peaks in the area and getting a certificate!

Approaching the border with Italy our journey was delayed by a landslide – that is, there had been a landslide because of heavy rain the night before and the road was temporarily closed.  Speaking to some of the other French and Italian motorists, it was better to wait until the road opened again rather than take the alternative, much longer and more tortuous route. So this is what we did. The rain had resulted in tons of greyish mud running down the mountains over the roads.

On entering Italy we were surprised to see the Cathar cross displayed on flags and posters. Looking this up, we realized that part of the Piemonte region on the Italian side of the Alps is referred to as Occitan where Oc is spoken and has been recognised and is protected by the Italian government as a minority language!

We drove on through Argentera, Pietraporzio, Sambuco and Vinadio (which looked very old an intriguing).  But it was late so we headed for one of the nearest campsites we could find – the ‘Il Melo Camping’ in Cuneo.  After an introductory chat with the owner in Italian, it didn’t take long for us to realise there was something very familiar about him, in terms of his general appearance and manner that is.  ‘Abdu’ turned out to be a ‘Saeedi’ Egyptian from Luxor who met his Italian wife while he was working and she was holidaying in Safaga on the red sea!  He had come to Italy and bought the campsite 5 years ago, and again, as for Mahmoud in Guillestre, managed to turn it around through sheer hard work and meeting the customer’s needs.  We chatted in Arabic as though we were old friends and it felt reassuring, though slightly incongruous!  It seems we’re destined to come across reminders of the Middle East wherever we go.  Abdu also bore an uncanny resemblance to Ayman, Flavio’s hairdresser in Cairo!